[Visitor Q]

Well here we go, old hat to some and new to others.

1098 Oil Change

Tools etc. needed:

Torque Wrench
Oil Wrench
5mm Allen Socket
Rag
Funnel
Oil (3.6 qt. or 3311cc [946cc = 1 qt.])
Oil Filter (Ducati Part # 444.4.003.4A)
Drain Plug Washer (Ducati Part # 852.5.026.1A)



Put the bike up on the front and rear stand (if you have them) and remove the belly pan.

Run the bike and bring it up to temp..



Here is the bottom of the sump. To the rear in the middle is the oil plug. This is a 5mm allen, the sump is 4mm which I will not be removing at this time. According to the Ducati service manual the sump filter is to be removed 22.5 miles x1000 or 36 months which I fit into neither at this point.





The oil plug is magnetic on the end and collects any sort of small metal debris.



I recommend taking some canned air and blowing off the end of the plug to remove any metal flakes.





Once the plug is clean it is time to remove the filter, meet Mr. Happy. =]



Carefully remove the oil filter.



Let it all drain…

Once the oil has all drained, take the new oil filter and pour some oil in it as well as putting a bead of oil around the seal.



Install the new oil filter, hand tight.

Install the new oil filter washer, notice that it is loose. It’s a crush washer and will flatten out when installed correctly.



Torque specs is 18-22 nm, 20 is what I recommend.

***NOTE*** Since the washer is sorta on the big size, try to center it when you reinstall the drain plug.

Pull back the cowl on the right side to get access to the oil inlet.





Fill it up and check the oil level.

***NOTE*** DO NOT check the oil levels on the front and rear stands, it is not the true level. Remove the bike from the front and rear stand, hold it level (or have someone hold it for you) and check the level. Better to under fill at first as it is easy to add oil and hard to remove. DO NOT over fill!

Start the bike and bring it up to temp.. Shut it off and let it set for 3 to 5 mins and then check the level again, top off if needed.

Go ride and be safe.

ps. Please feel free to add any tips of your own to this thread to help others, thanks!

[604Ducati]

Nice write-up! Love all the pix!

Thanks again for writing it up.

[bernardchao]

awesome. lookin forward to doing this

[KarlG]

Saved me about 5 min from my first try, thanks. Nice write up and excellent pics, except I heard Repsol makes a Ducati slower

[Visitor Q]

Originally Posted by KarlG

Saved me about 5 min from my first try, thanks. Nice write up and excellent pics, except I heard Repsol makes a Ducati slower

HAH! Tell that to Hayden, I heard he is on board with Ducati next year.

Thanks Guys.

[Joe]

Thank you for posting this, however, as an anal retentive engineer I need to make one best practices comment. You should never use your torque wrench to remove a bolt or as a breaker bar. Depending on the type of torque wrench and size it may damaged. It isn't bloodly likely, but better safe than sorry.

Now post a write up for the valves please.

Thanks,
Joe

[1098RED]

Nice write up with great photos....as always Q!!

[Visitor Q]

Originally Posted by Joe

Thank you for posting this, however, as an anal retentive engineer I need to make one best practices comment. You should never use your torque wrench to remove a bolt or as a breaker bar. Depending on the type of torque wrench and size it may damaged. It isn't bloodly likely, but better safe than sorry.

Now post a write up for the valves please.

Thanks,
Joe

Good point but the drain bolt should only be torqued to a max of 22 lbf-ft so in this case using it as a breaker bar was not the case. I guess my figuring was if the torque wrench was only made to tighten and not loosen why would it have the ability to ratchet in either direction? You are never untorquing anything so to speak…

[Joe]

It's just a habit thing so you don't torque the torque wrench if the bolt turns out to be frozen. Kind of like always pointing a gun in a safe direction, even if it isn't loaded.

Joe

[Visitor Q]

Fair enough, good point.

Thanks.